Kerala Backwaters Escape
Destination
High in the Nilgiri Hills of western Tamil Nadu, Ooty (officially Udhagamandalam) sits at about 7,350 feet (2,240 m) above sea level, and the first thing most visitors notice is the air. After the heat of the plains, it is cool, damp, and smells of eucalyptus and pine. The British found the same relief in the 1820s, when John Sullivan, the Collector of Coimbatore, built a house here and started turning a Toda tribal grazing ground into a summer retreat. By the late 1800s Ooty was the summer seat of the Madras Presidency, complete with clubs, churches, cottages, and a botanical garden.
Today Ooty tourism draws a mix of Indian honeymooners, school groups, and foreign travelers who come for green tea estates, rolling grassland, misty lakes, and the slow ride on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, the steam-hauled "toy train" that has been listed by UNESCO since 2005. The town itself is busy and a little worn around the edges, especially near the lake and the bus stand, but step a few miles out and you are among tea gardens, shola forest, and quiet hill villages.
Ooty works best as a two- or three-night stop between Mysore and the Kerala or Tamil Nadu plains. Pair it with Coonoor, a smaller and calmer hill town about 12 miles (19 km) down the slope, and you get the full Nilgiri experience: the heritage train, tea tasting, colonial churches, viewpoints over the Coimbatore plains, and evenings by a fireplace, which is something you rarely get to say anywhere else in South India.
Nilgiri Mountain Railway, Government Botanical Garden, Doddabetta Peak, Ooty Lake, Coonoor tea estates
October – June
Cool, dry days and clear views (April – May is Indian holiday peak)
2 Days
Add 1 day to stay in Coonoor or ride the full toy train route
Tamil, Badaga, English
English understood at hotels, tea estates, and by guides
Many travelers end up preferring Coonoor to Ooty. It sits a little lower at around 6,000 feet (1,850 m), so it is milder and less foggy, and the town is smaller with far fewer crowds. Tea estates surround it on every side, and several old bungalows have been turned into small heritage hotels.
If you ride the Nilgiri toy train from Mettupalayam, Coonoor is the natural place to break the trip, and you can continue to Ooty the next day by train or road.
Read More +Like what you see? Let's plan it for you.
Private car, driver and hotels arranged around your dates. Reply within 24 hours.
Ooty
The Nilgiri Mountain Railway is the main reason many foreign travelers come to Ooty. This meter-gauge line climbs about 29 miles (46 km) from Mettupalayam at the foot of the hills to Ooty, passing through tunnels, over many bridges, and around tight curves cut into the mountainside. Between Mettupalayam and Coonoor the gradient is so steep that the train uses a rack-and-pinion system, the only one of its kind still working in India, and this section is still worked by steam locomotives that push the small blue-and-cream carriages uphill. The full uphill ride takes close to five hours, with a water stop at Hillgrove where you can stretch your legs and buy tea. Sit on the right side going up for the best valley views. Along with Darjeeling and Shimla, it is part of the Mountain Railways of India UNESCO World Heritage Site. Seats sell out weeks ahead in season, so book early through Indian Railways or let your tour company arrange it. If you are short on time, the shorter Coonoor to Ooty run (diesel) gives a good taste in about an hour and a half.
Laid out in 1848, the Government Botanical Garden covers about 55 acres of terraced lawns on the slopes of Doddabetta. You will find old trees from around the world, a fern house, a glasshouse of flowering plants, an Italian-style garden, and a fossilized tree trunk said to be some 20 million years old. A small Toda hamlet sits on the hill above the garden, and you can see the traditional barrel-shaped Toda huts there. The garden hosts the well-known Ooty Flower Show every May, when it becomes very crowded. Visit early in the morning for quiet paths and soft light.
Ooty Lake is a man-made lake created by John Sullivan in 1824 by damming a mountain stream. It is about a mile long and edged with eucalyptus trees. Rowboats, pedal boats, and motorboats can be hired from the boat house, and there is a small mini-train and amusement area for children. It is a pleasant hour, though not the most peaceful spot in town, especially on weekends. For a calmer walk, follow the far shore away from the boat house.
At 8,650 feet (2,637 m), Doddabetta is the highest point in the Nilgiris and one of the highest in South India. A short drive of about 6 miles (10 km) from town brings you near the summit, where a telescope house gives views over the Nilgiri plateau and, on a clear day, down toward the Mysore plains and Coimbatore. Clouds roll in quickly, so go before 10 am for the best chance of a clear view. Bring a jacket, as it is noticeably colder and windier than town.
Opened in 1995 to mark a century of the Ooty Flower Show, the Rose Garden is laid out in terraces on Elk Hill and holds thousands of rose varieties, making it one of the largest rose collections in India. Flowers are at their best from April to June and again after the monsoon. Even out of bloom, the terraces give a good view across the town and the racecourse.
Built in 1829–1830, St. Stephen's Church is one of the oldest churches in the Nilgiris. Its timber beams are said to have come from the palace of Tipu Sultan at Srirangapatna after his defeat. The churchyard is filled with old British graves whose inscriptions tell the story of the colonial hill station, including many people who died young. It is a quiet, short visit and a good contrast to the busier sights.
About 13 miles (21 km) from Ooty on the road toward Mudumalai, Pykara is a reservoir surrounded by grassland, shola forest, and pine plantations. Motorboat rides on Pykara Lake are popular, and the Pykara Falls nearby is a series of cascades that are fullest after the monsoon. The drive itself passes the Pine Forest and the Shooting Point meadows (famous as Indian film locations), so this makes a good half-day outing.
For open landscapes away from the crowds, head about 17 miles (28 km) southwest to Avalanche, a protected area of rolling hills, shola forest, and a quiet reservoir. Entry is managed by the forest department, which runs eco-tourism vehicle trips into the reserve, and private vehicles are not allowed beyond the gate. Nearby Emerald Lake has tea gardens running right down to the water. This is one of the best spots in the district for photography and birdwatching.
Several tea factories around Ooty and Coonoor welcome visitors. At the Tea Factory and Tea Museum on the Doddabetta road, you can see how Nilgiri tea is withered, rolled, fermented, and dried, then taste a few grades and buy fresh tea. Nilgiri tea is lighter and more fragrant than Assam, and good packs make easy gifts to carry home.
Like what you see? Let's plan it for you.
Private car, driver and hotels arranged around your dates. Reply within 24 hours.
Getting there
Ooty is reached by mountain road or the Nilgiri toy train, with Coimbatore as the nearest airport.
Coimbatore International Airport, about 55 miles (88 km) away, roughly 3 hours by car, with flights from Chennai, Bangalore, Mumbai, Delhi, and some Gulf cities
Mettupalayam station at the foot of the hills, linked to Chennai by the overnight Nilgiri Express, then the toy train up to Coonoor and Ooty
About 4 hours from Mysore via Bandipur and Mudumalai, and about 3 hours from Coimbatore via the Mettupalayam ghat road
Tours that include Ooty
Explore more
Kerala Backwaters EscapeN.S. Rathore & Mrs. Omlata Rathore · Managing Director
We still read every enquiry ourselves. Tell us the places you liked and our planners will send a day-by-day route with drive times and a clear price.
No ready-made packages and no pressure to book. A planner from our Kochi office replies within 24 hours with a route written for your group.
Fill this in and your planner will send a first draft itinerary.