Kerala Backwaters Escape
Destination
On the eastern shore of Vembanad Lake, about an hour from Alleppey by road, Kumarakom is a cluster of small islands, rice fields, and coconut groves that has become Kerala's best-known address for lakeside resorts. Where Alleppey is about boats and moving through the canals, Kumarakom is about staying put: waking up in a cottage at the water's edge, watching kingfishers on the railing, and letting the day go by with a book, a massage, and a sunset cruise.
The area was largely farmland until the late 1800s, when an English missionary family, the Bakers, reclaimed swampy land here and planted a large estate. Part of that estate is now the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, and the old Baker bungalow is part of a heritage resort. Since then, Kumarakom has grown into one of the most popular spots for Kerala backwater holidays, but it has stayed low-rise and green, with most hotels set among palms rather than lined up along a road.
For foreign travelers, Kumarakom is a good choice if you want the backwater scenery without spending every night on a boat. It's especially popular with couples, honeymooners, and anyone ending a busy India tour who needs a few days of real rest. Village life carries on all around the resorts, and the local responsible tourism program makes it easy to visit farms, fishermen, and craftspeople in the surrounding villages.
Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, Vembanad Lake, sunset cruise, village experiences, Pathiramanal Island, Ayurveda spas
November – February
Dry weather and the most migratory birds
2 Day
Add a night for a slow resort stay
Malayalam, English
Resort staff and guides speak good English
Kumarakom's lakeside resorts are the main reason many travelers come here, and choosing the right one shapes your whole stay. Here's what to know.
Most good resorts in Kumarakom offer more than a room. Expect sunset cruises on a country boat or small houseboat, Ayurvedic massages and treatments, morning yoga sessions, cooking demonstrations, guided walks through the bird sanctuary, and evening cultural shows such as Kathakali or Mohiniyattam. Some also run village tours with the local responsible tourism group. Ask what's included in your rate, as some activities cost extra.
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Kumarakom
Spread over about 14 acres on the lakeshore, the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary is the main sight in the area and a must for anyone who likes nature. A shaded walking trail runs through mangroves, bamboo, and tall trees, with small watchtowers along the way. Resident birds include egrets, herons, cormorants, darters, kingfishers, and owls, and in the cooler months many migrants arrive from northern India and beyond. The best time is early morning, shortly after opening, when birds are most active and it's still cool. Hire a local guide at the entrance or bring binoculars, as many birds sit high in the canopy. The trail can be muddy after rain, so wear closed shoes.
Vembanad Lake is the reason Kumarakom exists as a destination. It's the largest lake in Kerala, and from the Kumarakom shore you look across a broad sheet of water dotted with fishing canoes and the occasional houseboat. The light changes through the day, and sunsets over the lake are some of the prettiest in the state. Most resorts have lake-facing cottages, decks, or infinity pools, and many run their own boats for short cruises.
A short boat ride from Kumarakom, Pathiramanal is a small wooded island in the middle of Vembanad Lake. Local legend says it rose from the lake when a young Brahmin dove into the water for his evening prayers. Today, it's a quiet place with a walking path and plenty of birdlife, including cormorants, herons, and darters. There are no shops or facilities, so carry water. Many resorts can arrange a private boat trip here, often combined with a sunset cruise.
The Bay Island Driftwood Museum is a small, unusual private museum created by a local teacher who has spent years collecting pieces of driftwood from the Andaman Islands and shaping them very lightly into forms that suggest animals, birds, and people. It's a personal collection, and visiting is a pleasant half-hour if you have time between resort activities. Check opening days in advance, as hours can vary.
About 30 minutes from Kumarakom, the Aruvikkuzhi Waterfall drops through rubber plantations into a rocky pool. It's not a huge fall, but it's at its best during and just after the monsoon, when the water is high. The drive passes through rural Kottayam district, with rubber trees, small churches, and village shops, which is part of the appeal. In the dry season, the flow can be quite low.
About an hour north of Kumarakom, the Vaikom Mahadeva Temple is one of the oldest and most important Shiva temples in Kerala. It's also known for the Vaikom Satyagraha of 1924–25, a peaceful protest for the right of lower-caste people to use the roads around the temple, which became a landmark in India's social reform movement. Entry to the temple is restricted to Hindus, but the town and the memorial to the protest are worth seeing for those interested in history. The temple's annual Vaikathashtami festival in November or December brings decorated elephants and traditional music.
About 30 minutes from Kumarakom, the Ettumanoor Mahadeva Temple is famous for its old wall murals, including a well-known painting of Shiva as Nataraja on the gopuram (entrance building). The temple is built in the classic Kerala style, with copper-plated roofs and a large courtyard. As with most Kerala temples, entry inside is limited to Hindus, but the exterior architecture and the gateway murals can be seen from outside.
Kottayam, about 30 minutes away, is the district town and a historic center of Kerala Christianity and printing. It's known as the "land of letters, latex, and lakes" because of its long history of newspapers and publishing, its rubber plantations, and its waterways. Visitors with an interest in church history can see old churches such as the Valiyapally (St. Mary's Knanaya Church), which holds ancient Persian crosses. Kottayam is also the nearest railway station for Kumarakom.
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Getting there
Kumarakom is easy to reach from Kochi and is often combined with Alleppey.
Cochin International Airport, about 2 hours by road, is the nearest airport
Kottayam railway station, about 30 minutes away, with trains to Ernakulam, Trivandrum, Chennai, and Bangalore
Good roads link Kumarakom to Kottayam, Alleppey, and Kochi, and on to Thekkady and Munnar in the hills
Tours that include Kumarakom
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Kerala Backwaters Escape
Kerala Backwaters EscapeN.S. Rathore & Mrs. Omlata Rathore · Managing Director
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